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Monday, September 24, 2012

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

At some point one must leave home as did Dorothy, to explore the world and then return. Several times a year I travel from Fort Wayne to see some sights I can see within a day's drive. A dear friend from Chicago asked a group of us to join her in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, and so I made the five-hour drive over the summer for a weekend retreat.

There is a charming downtown in Lake Geneva, with lots of artistic shopping opportunities and tasty dining. The lake is ringed in private homes and huge estates, yet is accessible and friendly for all types of folks. If you want to hike a trail, swim at the beach or have an expensive spa treatment, you can find it here.

The photo above was taken of a private home, one of hundreds that rings the lake. What a beautiful, grand home it is, with several stories, balconies, and a turret. We saw this and many others when we walked on a trail around the lake. Runners and bikers also used the simple trail.

Glaciers formed the lake basin long before the United States was a country, and Native Americans fished its waters. It was called "muck-suck" by the Indians, and then Big Foot, named after a Pottawatomi chief. An early English settler, after skirmishes over land and water rights, called the place Geneva after his former home in New York. Grist mills and saw mills were built to utilize the available water power.

In the late 1800s, the town became a popular destination and retreat for residents of Chicago. Railroad access made this possible for the captains of industry and other people of means. Founders of companies such as Morton Salt and Wrigley chewing gum built mansions and large homes around the lake.

When you visit the town of Lake Geneva, one of the most visible landmarks is what looks like a grand Victorian turreted home or small castle. The Baker House was built as a summer resident in 1885. Robert Hall Baker built this 17,000 square foot, 30-room, Queen Anne-style, turreted mansion that was once a summer home; then it was a school dorm, sanitarium, and Speakeasy. Now it's a hotel and restaurant listed on the National Registrar of Historic Sites. It's a luxurious inn with a restaurant, 13 fireplaces, and floor to ceiling hand-carved mantles with rare tiles.

Lake Geneva was a haven for Al Capone and other mobsters for a while early in the 20th century. Hugh Hefner built his first Playboy Resort here, which then closed in 1981. It's now the elaborate and expensive Grand Geneva Resort. One of the best things to do here is take a tour of the lake by boat (or "yacht"). These lake cruises on double-decker steamers and lovely wooden boats have guides, narrators and refreshments on board.

Below are some of the mansions one can see: "The Oaks" - Dr. Phillip Maxwell built the oldest mansion there, now called Golden Oaks Mansion. "Black Point" has a distinctive four-story tower. This place could only be reached by steamboat when it was first built. Guests were ferried over once a week and then returned a week or two later. Stone Manor is a gigantic 18,000 foot Italian palace which is visible nearly anywhere along the lake. Once a private mansion, now it houses condominiums. It almost looks like a small city in itself.

Many more interesting estates ring the lake. They have wonderful names, such as House in the Woods, Maple Lawns, and Green Gables. Powerful men such as Montgomery Ward and Sears built the place up and it remains for the rest of us to see. There is a large university observatory telescope belonging to the U. of Chicago that we didn't visit, but it's quite impressive. Yerkes Observatory was established in 1897 and houses a big telescope at a 77-acre, park-like site.  It's open to the public for tours on Saturdays, and offers different programs such as family viewing nights and professional development for teachers.

Lake Geneva was charming, with something for everyone. It's a little too far to be a regular retreat for folks from Fort Wayne, but worth a visit sometime.  It would be just right for a weekend getaway, or a week-long summer retreat. It's not really a water ski lake, but it's good for socializing, people watching, and site-seeing. Several golf courses are there, and lots of hotels, retirement villages, and condos.  If you live in Chicago or somewhere near, definitely check it out sometime.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Sauder Village recreates old farm life

In the middle of miles and miles of farm fields in northwestern Ohio lies a collection of authenticated wigwams and tepees, farm buildings and old towns, snack shops and craft stores. This compilation of culture is a close approximation of what it was like to live a pioneer life. Although this kind of themed educational park is not my usual cup of tea, my jaded self was fascinated. The creator of and collector for this place has done such a great job.

Sauder Village is this reproduction of historic culture in Northwestern Ohio. When the United States was first a nation, this area of the country was part of the Great Black Swamp. Not until much of the rest of the United States was settled, was the swamp drained and the white settlers could attempt to move in and farm. Until that time, Native Americans lived in the swamp, building structures above the water line on stilts, fishing, and reaping the abundant ecosystem. Horses would sink into the wetlands and swamp grounds, which kept the white man out.

But in about the 1830's, the game changed, and oxen were finally able to traverse the submerged wetlands where horses could not. That meant eventually farmers could drain and plant the fertile fields. So what has happened here in Archbold, Ohio, is that a local farm boy and entrepreneur created a replica of early ways of life. He had actual structures moved from different parts of Ohio to this place, so that visitors could come and see the history of this part of the world.

Erie Sauder made a beautiful place here. He was a local farm boy, and in 1934 he founded the Sauder Woodworking Company. By the 1970's, he had an idea to preserve and display some of the local heritage that was rapidly disappearing.  He found structures built a century earlier, had them preserved and transported to his historic village. Here you will see old school houses, farm buildings, churches and blacksmith shops. There are also precise replicas of many types of Native American dwellings, such as bark structures, dugouts, tepees and wigwams.

Lots of docents are there to help you on your journey as you visit the tableaus and buildings. The kids saw what it was like to trade furs for blankets and pots in an old general store. They pumped water from a well, sawed logs, and got a lesson in a one-room school house. We went for a ride on a small-gauge train and later in a horse-drawn carriage.

There is lots to see and do, learn, buy, and eat. I toured the whole of the main village, but there is more to this place I didn't see. The website says they have a 350-seat restaurant, a bakery, campground, and even a country inn and an exhibit hall. So it's set up for big groups of visitors and the RV crowd. If you were traveling across county on I 80-90, you could make a minor detour and check this place out. I know I will be going back here again sometime; I think it's only about an hour or so from Fort Wayne.

Another thing I really liked about it: Sauder Village is also an actual working farm. You'll see ordinary activities such as sheep shearing, harvesting, cooking and canning. Blacksmithing, handmade arts and crafts; I didn't even see all the artisans here. There are lots of farm animals for the kids to see as well.  I didn't spend much time in the museum halls, but that leaves something to explore next time.  See you later.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Campers, Horses, the Disabled, and Red Cedar


When was the last time you were on a picnic out in the grass? It's been a while for me. This is not a new photo, and from the looks of the trees it must have been fall here. But I do believe the prairie grass looks much the same right now. In September the grass is turning many colors as the seed heads mature. Sometimes the ends of the grass look red, or purple. The stalks are so tall I find myself describing them as majestic. Maybe it helps to be there -

Meadow paths like this give me the urge to go on a trail ride, courtesy of some eager horses. I'm thinking a short little mount, or just a pony with ears perked up and mane flowing behind a bobbing head. It's been a long time for me.

A lot of kids have the desire to learn to ride horses. We've had good experiences with Camp Red Cedar on Hursh Road in Fort Wayne. Before signing up for ongoing lessons, this camp gives kids the chance to try out the whole equestrian experience and see what it's all about.

There is a lot more work to horses than just learning to ride, of course. At the Red Cedar camp, even the young kids go through the basics of horsemanship, including cleaning stalls, washing horses, picking out their feet, brushing, saddling, etc. This is time consuming, and it gives kids a realistic picture of what it really means to be responsible for a horse.

Red Cedar is located on 57 acres with pastures, woods, a ten-acre lake, barns and camping structures. The kids swim at the lovely beach in the summertime, and it is fully accessible for people with disabilities. And that is a great thing about this camp - they have programs for fully abled people, and disabled people. They have summer camps for people with autism and Downs syndrome, diabetes, and other issues. And they have regular horseback riding lessons, and private lessons, and trail rides. It's a spacious, peaceful place.

The week-long summer camp for autistic kids is creative. Every hour or so there is a different activity - games, arts & crafts, karate, soccer, etc. Plus the horseback riding - someone leads the horse, the riders wear helmets. The horses are gentle and quiet. Therapeutic riding helps people with balance, coordination, muscle control, and confidence. I think it's such a good thing. The people that work there seem very dedicated. A lot of the summer help are college-age kids with plenty of energy and good spirits. I admire people who give back like that - I find it to be an inspiration.

Hursh Road is close to I-69 and Tonkel Road, which is easily accessible and a nice part of northern Allen County. You can visit Red Cedar's website at www.awsredcedar.com.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Lily pads on the reservoir

It's September. The squirrels are gathering the walnuts. The Amish are taking their produce to the local markets. The children linger on their walks home from school.

The weather is glorious. Not so hot, not humid. Perfect weather for bicycling, walking, rowing, a hundred things. Soccer games, baseball games, fishing. The fishermen glide the river like water bugs.

This is just a short note to say, please have a wonderful day. Tomorrow is September 11th, not today. Hug your families. Laugh. Play. Sit on a quiet dock and look at the peaceful lily pads. Who knows when you might get another chance.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

It's Good to be Back

After a long summer hiatus, I am back. It was a busy summer, with trips to California, Illinois, and the Lake Michigan shoreline.

 Indiana Dunes State Park is my new favorite August day trip from Fort Wayne. After driving just over two hours, a family can pay $5 for parking and play in the clean waves of the oceanic lake. My husband said he was expecting the familiar taste of salt water when he dove under, and it doesn't happen. Stress free swimming - no spiny things underfoot, no jellyfish or sharks. Just beautiful big sky views and sparkling water.

It was so dry in northern Indiana the summer of 2012, there were no fireworks in Leo over the Fourth of July. Instead, they were rescheduled for August, and they were wonderful over the reservoir - we could see them twice their size as the full reflection of the display was projected on to the still body of water in front of us. It brought the magic of summer to life, and gave us another set of memories to cherish.

We met up with family in rural Missouri, where we hiked and swam, and the children watched a penguin movie projected on a big screen outside on a beach in the evening while they swam in the water. I made a trip to Lake Geneva, Wisconsin for a get together with childhood girlfriends. Lake Geneva was impressive, ringed in expensive estate homes and drenched with social history. The wealthy from Chicago and other nearby towns and cities have made this a playground since the 1800s. Lovely restaurants and shopping top off the good vibe to this scenic town.

Hopefully I'll be back to posting on a regular basis. I have a new idea for a writing project, so I'll be spending a lot of time in the near future starting my work on it. In my story, a 50-year-old woman rediscovers a package of 27 love notes and letters that were passed to her between classes by a high school boyfriend long ago. She had saved the notes but forgotten about them over the years, as they were buried with other old papers in a cardboard box. But as she re-reads them, she gets a new window to the past and to the precious joy and hope that blooms with young love. It gives her a new perspective to her life and to her long-time love, who is not the author of the notes. I may not have time to blog as much while I write my story, but I'll keep you posted on my progress.

 Thanks for reading, and I hope to see you again soon. I've missed writing, even though I had a memorable summer. It feels good to be home.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Coney Island Hot Dogs are a Fort Wayne Tradition


The Coney Island Weiner Stand has been in continual operation in Fort Wayne since 1914. It sits in a traditional downtown storefront building on Main Street, and smells of steaming dogs and buns. Customers are lined up approaching the grill, but parties are seated at old tables. Down the length of the place is the counter bar, with ancient stools propped to view the grills and the workers behind.

The menu is limited and does not change. So customers have been eating the same coney dogs, chili soup, and cheeseburgers for generations. If you came in here to eat in the 1950s or 60s, or 1970s, 80s, or 90s - well, you get the idea. You would get the same coney dog that is a small amount of thin chili over the dog, with a steamed bun, minced raw onion, and yellow mustard. The hamburger or cheeseburger, which is exactly mustard, ketchup, pickle, onion. And no fries - chips, because they used to serve only the hometown traditional brand, made nearby: Seifert's.

The chili, which is more accurately described as chili soup, is great and is unique. The ground beef pieces in it are fine, not chunky. It is somewhat watery but packs a kick in flavor - I really liked it steaming hot in the bowl, served with oyster crackers. You can also get a fountain Pepsi or a Coke in a small traditional bottle.

Food is brought out on trays, and is served on served on tiny, hard plastic plates that would remind a baby boomer of one's grade school cafeteria. I noticed people walking in and out from the back door, picking up box-fulls of dogs, and there it is listed on the menu - served by the dozen. This is all new to me, but I did not grow up here. The locals have always talked about stopping here like it's a favorite haunt. If restaurants are full and you need to get the ballpark on time, the waiting list would be a lot shorter here.

I was too full for pie but I asked about it - the waiter said they had lemon, coconut and apple. Yum! That sounds really good. Coney Island is found at 131 W. Main St. near the intersection with S. Harrison. They are open at 7 a.m. during the week- does that mean it's hot dogs and chili for breakfast? I'll have to ask an old local about that.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Mount Baldy along the Lake Michigan shoreline


A few miles down the beach from the Michigan City scene here, stands Mt. Baldy, a 126-foot high sand dune rising up over Lake Michigan. It is starving, meaning there is more beach sand going out than coming in. When a breakwater was built down the beach for Michigan City Harbor, it prevented the new accumulation of sand at Mount Baldy, hence the 'starving'. But Baldy is traveling.

From the water, the sand moves in to the spot when the prevailing northwest wind exceeds seven m.p.h. This all means Mt. Baldy moves about four feet each year.

It's a fun park, where you can take a boardwalk around and down to the beach, or take a more challenging hike to the summit. Very few plants grow on the dome, so it looks very desert-like. Marram grass, also called dune grass, help to hold the dunes in place. There are also black oak trees on many of Indiana's dunes.

The parking lot is easily accessible from U.S. Highway 12, Michigan City. Drive in and you immediately see the huge back of the dune, about to encroach upon the parking lot. That side of the hill is closed to climbing so as not to hasten erosion. People do swim here in warm weather, and rip tide current signs are posted. Just hiking on the trails and strolling along the beach is very pleasant. Kids like to try and run up and down as fast as they can, tripping or even rolling, but that's kids for you. It's the usual - picnics, volleyball, people burying themselves in sand. Which, by the way, is not supposed to be healthy because of bacteria in the sand. Bummer.

I love taking photographs of the beautiful water and sand dunes. Dune grasses, the aqua water, white sand - I could look at it all day. Changing lights, sunsets - I'm in heaven. It's also healthy walking and great exercise if you keep moving.

Interestingly enough, a sign says not to sled, inner-tube, or snowboard on the dunes. I guess people will try anything. Hidden dangers are cited, not to speak of the danger to other people who simply want to walk on the dunes.

The Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore is part of the National Park Service. There are more than 390 parks in the national program. This one is just two and a half hours or less drive from Fort Wayne, and I do really like to see it again and again.